The Fimmvörðuháls hike between Skógar and Thórsmörk is nothing short of epic. This 25 kilometer walking route takes you over fiery pass across Eyjafjallajökull and into the fabled valley of Thórsmörk. On the top of the pass you can see the giant lava flows and new craters from the 2010 eruption. But is it possible to do all this in one day? Fimmvörðuháls the easy way, the hard way, and an unexpected grand encore on that ridiculously steep (but utterly beautiful) Útigönguhöfði mountain.
I didn’t know what to expect of Iceland on my first visit. It was a short trip to see a concert of Sigur Rós. Little did I expect to be blown away in more ways than one. I got lost in some of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen, full of steaming fields and craggy mountains with countless waterfalls tumbling from their hallucinating green edges. It would trigger many more trips to come.
This is at the intimidating steaming heaps of the Fimmvörðuháls fissure lava flow in 2014. I had to brave howling winds in order to even stay upright, while holding a relic lava rock that was coughed up by the mighty Eyjafjallajökull himself.
Eyjafjallajökull, the unpronounceable one, silently looming in the background. Nobody knew its name, or could even pronounce it. Until that day in April 2010, when it literally erupted into world fame, and stopped the whole of Europe in their tracks. Eyjafjallajökull rules them all.