The Fimmvörðuháls walking track between Skógar and Thórsmörk, the easy way and the hard way. Hike the fiery pass across Eyjafjallajökull into the fabled valley of Thórsmörk, full of big mountains, glaciers with volcanoes underneath, huge river valleys and gorges. And: how not to get lost on Útigönguhöfði mountain.
I didn’t know what to expect of Iceland on my first visit. It was a short trip to see a concert of Sigur Rós. Little did I expect to be blown away in more ways than one. I got lost in some of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen, full of steaming fields and craggy mountains with countless waterfalls tumbling from their hallucinating green edges. It would trigger many more trips to come.
This is at the intimidating steaming heaps of the Fimmvörðuháls fissure lava flow in 2014. I had to brave howling winds in order to even stay upright, while holding a relic lava rock that was coughed up by the mighty Eyjafjallajökull himself.
Eyjafjallajökull, the unpronounceable one, silently looming in the background. Nobody knew its name, or could even pronounce it. Until that day in April 2010, when it literally erupted into world fame, and stopped the whole of Europe in their tracks. Eyjafjallajökull rules them all.