The fiery pass across Eyjafjallajökull into the fabled valley of Þórsmörk, full of big mountains, glaciers with volcanoes underneath, huge river valleys and gorges. The Fimmvörðuháls walking route between Skógar and Þórsmörk, the easy way and the hard way. And: how not to get lost on Útigönguhöfði mountain.
My first visit to Iceland was a short trip to see a concert of Sigur Rós. Little did I expect to be blown away in more ways than one. I got lost in some of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen, full of steaming fields and craggy mountains with countless waterfalls tumbling from their hallucinating green edges.
This is at the intimidating steaming heaps of the Fimmvörðuháls fissure lava flow in 2014. I had to brave howling winds in order to even stay upright, while holding a relic lava rock that was coughed up by the mighty Eyjafjallajökull himself.
The unpronouncable one, silently looming in the background. Nobody knew its name, or could even pronounce it. Until that day in April 2010, when it literally erupted into world fame, and stopped the whole of Europe in their tracks. Eyjafjallajökull rules them all.