Vestmannaeyjar is one of those fascinating places that will leave you in awe with the beauty of it all. Sailing into Heimaey harbour, through a narrow opening surrounded by a jumbled chain of steep cliffs and a huge field of intimidating lava flows, is an amazing experience in itself. Don’t be misguided by its small size though. With its incredible density of spectacular sights and features, a daytrip would simply not do it justice.
So how much time do you need on Vestmannaeyjar?
I’ve spoken to many visitors, and the one thing everyone mentioned is: they wished they had taken more time to spend on the island.
You’ll want to have at least a couple of days to explore the walking tracks with stunning views everywhere you look. It’s like a great variety of Icelandic landscapes densely compressed into one small island. There are steep and craggy mountain ridges, rocky coastlines with dramatic sea cliffs, hidden beaches, a couple of volcanoes, mossy lava flows and a magical valley. And the biggest puffin colony in the world.
There’s also a variety of nice restaurants, some interesting museums and one of the best local breweries in Iceland – with its own Eldfell speciality beer. A nice reward after conquering the volcano 😉 The island even has its own glacier named after it – the IslandMountainGlacier. Not actually on the island itself, but directly across on the other side. It’s also known as Eyjafjallajökull.
Hiking on Heimaey
I made detailed descriptions of several local walking tracks around the main island of Heimaey. Including lots of photo’s of what the track is like, what you can expect along the way, and of course the beautiful views that await. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did 🙂
Islands shaped by volcanic activity
The chain of jumbled rocks on the north side is the oldest part of the island, forged by volcanic activity from the hotspot underneath about 40.000 years ago. Initially the harbour kletturs and the cliffs around Herjólfsdalur were two seperate islands. Later on they were connected by Eiðið, the small isthmus that runs between them. The rest of Heimeay didn’t emerge until about 6000 years ago. It was constructed by a combination of several eruptions. Stórhöfði, the headland to the south, was formed as a third island. When Helgafell arrived to the scene, all three were fused together into the present island.
The volcanic presence can be seen all around, and continues to create more additions at irregular intervals. In 1963 another island, Surtsey, bubbled up from the sea in spectacular fashion. And only as recent as 1973 Eldfell made its sudden entrance, when it erupted out of nowhere in a grassy field and created a whole new mountain.
The resilience of Heimaey
The eruption almost devastated the island, causing the entire population to evacuate overnight. Without knowing if they would be able to return, or if their beautiful island would ever be habitable again. The ingenuity that was pulled off to save the harbour is legendary. No-one had ever fought an erupting volcano and won – but on Heimaey they did, in the face of adversity.
Heimaey harbour entrance, with the Eldfell lava fields and the towering shape of Heimaklettur on the other side.
Overview of the walking tracks
Click on the link in the title to see the description and photo’s.
The walking track to Heimaklettur – The Home Rock
Heimaklettur is the iconic Home Rock of Vestmannaeyjar. It may look a bit inacessible at first sight, but there are ladders and chains to help you up the path to the top. In the darker days of the year, people like to light candles on it. And around Christmas and New Year they get totally out of control, with a multitude of candles all over the upper slopes. It’s an incredibly beautiful sight.
The walking track to Eldfell – The Fiery Mountain
The walk to the top of Edfell is the one every visitor to Heimaey wants to do. It’s the famous volcano that spectacularly erupted out of nowhere in 1973. It’s very colourful, the track is easily accessible, and the views are absolutely stunning in all directions. From the top you can gawk onto the impressive lava flow that was furiously roiling & boiling only a few decades ago, and single-handedly enlarged the island by several square kilometers.
The walking track to Helgafell – The twin volcano
Helfgafell offers sweeping surround views of brooding volcanoes and a heart-shaped crater. For a long time, Helgafell was the ruling volcano on Heimaey. The one that merged the chain of rocks to the north and Stórhöfði to the south into the present island, its classic volcano-shaped silhouette dominating the interior.
The walking track to Herjólfsdalur – The Valley of Magic
Herjólfsdalur is intimidatingly beautiful, whichever angle you look at it. It looks like a giant natural amphitheatre, with stupendous rocks rising up on all sides as you enter the valley. The walk along the top ridge is one not to be missed. The distraction rate is very high, and there’s a great density of spectacular sights and features along the way.
The walking track to Blátindur – The dazzling heights of Dalfjall
Blátindur is the imposing peak rising up above Herjólfsdalur, beyond the daunting peaks of Dalfjall. It takes a bit of effort to scramble up there, but you’ll be rewarded with some truly jaw-dropping views. Including Blátindur casting its mighty shadow majestically into the bowl of Herjólfsdalur, if you go up in the afternoon.
The walking track to Klif – The beacon rock
The scrambling track to Klif, with ropes down the slope and a beacon of light on the top. You can haul yourself up this stunning cliff along ropes and chains attached to the upper parts. That may sound a bit discouraging, but it’s actually a lot of fun, not as difficult as it looks, and well worth the effort. There’s also that incredible view of a multitude of jumbled rocks.
The zen of Stafsnes – The hidden beach
The walking track to Stafsnes, a beautiful hidden beach in a sheltered cove behind the impressive folded cliffs of Blátindur. It’s almost like Hawaii – but without the palm trees. It can be blissfully sheltered – and wind-free! – and significantly warmer than the rest of the island. On the way you’ll pass by the little house on the giant plug.
The coastal track to Stórhöfði – Puffin colony and geological beach
Stórhöfði is the southernmost point of Heimaey, and home to the biggest puffin colony in Iceland. There’s also the surreal geological beach of Klauf, formed by volcanic eruptions from several directions. On the coastal track to Stórhöfði you can see incredible views, wild cliff formations and lots of puffins along the way.
You can read how to get to Vestmannaeyjar in this article.
And of course you’re welcome to share these posts with others who are interested in visiting this beautiful place.
(c) Nancy Claus – Wilderness Coffee & Natural High
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